Remanufacturing the Samsung ML-2010 Toner Cartridge
First released in July 2005, the Samsung ML-2010 printers are based on a 20-ppm,
These cartridges are based on the new engine/cartridge design of the ML-1610 (Dell
1100). The cartridges have a huge handle that folds over the cartridge when installed.
The good news here is that for at least the Samsung ML-2010 version, there is
not a fuse or chip used to reset the machine. There is a fuse clip, however. It
is possible that one of the soon-to-be-released Xerox or other Samsung cartridges
will use one.
These cartridges do not have a drum cover, and come new with a piece of heavy
paper taped around the cartridge. All new cartridges opened so far have shown
some toner leakage on the drum that would have shown on any prints.
The replacement cartridge itself is rated for 3,000 pages at 5 percent coverage
(ISO 19752). The starter cartridge is rated for 1,000 pages.
- Samsung ML-2010/ML-2010D3
- Samsung SCX-4321/Series SCX4521D3/SEE
- Samsung SCX-4521/Series SCX4521D3/SEE
- Samsung SP20MPP/Not released as of 9/19/2005
- Samsung SP20MPU/Not released as of 9/19/2005
- Xerox Phaser 3117/106R01159
- Xerox Phaser 3122/106R01159
Possible other machines based on the ML-2010 engine (not confirmed, but likely).
- Xerox WorkCentre PE-220/Not released as of 9/19/2005
- Xerox CopyCentre PE-220/Not released as of 9/19/2005
1) Toner-approved vacuum.
2) A small, common screwdriver.
3) A Phillips-head screwdriver.
4) Needle-nose pliers.
1) Samsung 2010 toner (85g).
2) Conductive grease.
3) Drum lubricating powder.
1) Place the cartridge on the work surface with the handle facing away from
you. Remove the two screws on the left end cap. See Figure 1.
2) Gently pry off the left end cap. See Figure 2.
3) On the front edge of the cartridge there are two screws; remove them. See
4) Lift up the waste chamber and remove it from the cartridge. Make sure the
tab on the right side slides out of the slot. If you try to lift the cover off
without sliding the tab out, it will break off. See Figure 4.
5) Remove the two screws and wiper blade from the waste chamber. See Figures
5 and 6.
6) Clean out any remaining toner from the waste chamber.
7) Reinstall the wiper blade and two screws. Place the waste chamber aside.
See Figure 7.
8) Remove the two screws from the right-side end cap. Carefully pry off the
end cap. See Figure 8.
9) Remove the four gears and place aside. See Figure 9.
10) Slide the PCR away from the contact side, lift up and remove. See Figure
Clean the PCR with your normal PCR cleaner.
WARNING: Do not clean the OEM PCR with alcohol, as this will remove the conductive
coating from the roller. If the PCR is an aftermarket, follow the cleaning methods
recommended by the manufacturer. If the PCR is an OEM, we recommend it be cleaned
with your standard PCR cleaner.
11) Remove the OPC drum. See Figure 11.
12) Carefully pry out the fill plug. It fits tight and is easily damaged. Work
a small jewelers screwdriver around the edge until the plug comes free. See
13) Clean out any remaining toner from the hopper.
14) Gently pry out the roller plate from the cartridge by pressing in on a tab
located on the bottom of the cartridge. There is a spring that is in contact
with the developer roller shaft. Move the tail of the spring up so that as the
plate is lifted out, it will fall behind it. See Figures 13 and 14.
15) Remove the developer roller by lifting it out. See Figure 15.
16) Remove the two screws on the doctor blade. On the fill-plug side of the
blade is the other tail of the spring. Lift it up while removing the doctor
blade so it is not damaged. See Figures 16 and 17.
It is highly recommended that the doctor blade be cleaned. Failure to do so
will cause streaking. Dampen a cotton swab with alcohol, and clean the blade.
Be careful not to press too hard and damage the blade. If the blade has a heavy
buildup of toner on it, clean it with acetone and then alcohol.
17) Clean the feed roller and any remaining toner from the hopper. See Figure
18) Reinstall the doctor blade and two screws. Make sure the tail of the spring
fits into the proper slot. See Figures 19 and 20.
19) Install the developer roller, keyed end to the gear side of the cartridge.
See Figure 21.
20) Install the roller plate. Route the tail of the spring so that it sits
on top of the plate and is in contact with the shaft of the developer roller.
Lock the plate in place with the tab. See Figures 22 and 23.
21) Install the four gears as shown. See Figure 24.
22) Install the drum in place. See Figure 25.
23) Clean out the old conductive grease from the PCR contact hub and replace
with new. A small amount of grease is fine, more is not better when it comes
to conductive grease. See Figure 26.
24) Install the PCR by sliding it through the non-contact side, and into the
contact hub. See Figure 27.
25) Fill the hopper with the appropriate toner. Replace the fill plug, check
for leaks. See Figure 28.
26) Install the gear-side end cap and two screws. Make sure the PCR fits correctly
in its holder and all the gears are aligned. See Figure 29.
27) Install the waste chamber by sliding the tab through the slot in the end
cap. Rotate it down and install the two screws. See Figures 30 and 31.
28) Install the remaining end cap and two screws. Make sure the end cap sits
flush with the rest of the cartridge. See Figures 32 and 33.
29) If your cartridge has a fuse, it needs to be replaced. Replace the fuse
located on the right front of the cartridge (with the handle away from you).
The ML-2010 does not use a fuse, and no other machines/cartridges are available
yet (as of September 2005), but the slot for a fuse is there so it is possible
that some of these cartridges will use one. See Figure 34.
Printing Test Pages
Press and hold the “CANCEL” button for two seconds until all the LEDs
blink slowly. A demo page will print out.
Common Cartridge Problems
- Repetitive Defect Chart
- PCR 38mm
- Developer Roller 44mm
- OPC Drum 75mm
A Dirty or Bad Primary Charge Roller (PCR): Located inside the cartridge,
this will show on the test print as vertical gray streaks down the page, as
a gray background throughout the page, as ghosting where part of a previously
printed area is repeated, or as a mark that repeats every 38mm.
Dirty PCR Connection: This will show as horizontal dark black bars
across the page, or as shading throughout the page.
Scratched Drum: This is shown by a very thin, perfectly straight line
that runs from the top to the bottom of the test page.
Chipped Drum: This will show as a dot or series of dots that repeat
Light-Damaged Drum: This will show up as a shaded area on the test
print that should be white. Again, this will repeat every 75mm.
Bad Wiper Blade: This will show as either a gray line approximately
1/8-inch thick, or as shading across the entire page. In either case there will
be a film of toner on the drum surface.
Bad Developer Roller: This will show up as light print or as a mark
that repeats every 44mm.
Machine Error Codes:
These machines do not have a display panel. They use a series of LEDs to indicate
a problem. There are two lights on the control panel, the ONLINE/ERROR light,
and the TONER SAVE light. The TONER SAVE light is a green LED, and the ONLINE/ERROR
LED is a two-color LED: red and green.
The user manual for these machines only has very basic information listed as
If both lights are blinking, the machine has problems and needs service. (Don’t
you just love these helpful notes?!)
If the ONLINE/ERROR light is on steady red, and the toner save is off, there
could be a number of problems. There is either a paper jam, the front cover
is open, the paper tray is empty, or the toner cartridge is empty.
The transfer roller, paper pickup roller, and the fuser are all rated for 50,000
Contact Mike Josiah and the technical staff of Summit Technologies at (631)
218-8376, fax (631) 218-3285 or visit www.summitechnologies.com.
This article originally appeared in the November 2005 issue of Recharger.