Remanufacturing The Canon imageClass D1120 Type 120 2055 Toner Cartridge
- By Mike Josiah
- Aug 01, 2010
First introduced in February 2010, the D1120 series of laser printers is based on 30ppm, 1200dpi Canon engine that has a first page out in less than eight seconds. There is just a single cartridge version for these machines, rated for 5,000 pages.
The cartridges are similar in design to the HP P2035 cartridges, but are not interchangeable. They also use the new drum drive gear system. The actual drive gear is a floating type that uses a ball and socket configuration. See Figure 1. There are no screws used at all to hold the cartridge together. All the end caps and bushings are held in place by plastic welds. This sounds worse than it is though it’s actually not that bad to do.
The pin system holding the two halves of the cartridge together is similar to many HP machines. You will need to cut two small holes cut in the top to get access to the pins. The pin access hole location on these cartridges is almost identical, and the same methods you use for the P2035 should work here.
The printers released in this series so far are as follows:
Cartridge troubleshooting as well as running test pages, cleaning pages and some simple printer troubleshooting will be covered at the end of this article.
- D1120 toner for the Type 120 cartridge (5,000 pages)
- Replacement chip
- New drum (Optional)
- Wiper Blade (Optional)
- Doctor blade (Optional)
- Magnetic roller (Optional)
- Sealing Strip (Optional)
- Cotton swabs
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Drum padding powder
- Jeweler’s screwdriver
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Small common screwdriver
- X-Acto knife with square chisel type blade (See Figure 22)
- Flush Cutting wire cutters
- Dremel type tool with side grinding bit
- 3/32 inch drill bit
- Small number 4 ¼ inch long self tapping screws
- Hot glue gun
1) Remove the drum cover by prying up on each end. Note the spring position so that it can be replaced later. See Figures 2 and 3.
2) Drill a shallow hole on each side of the cartridge as indicated by Figures 4, 5 (un-cut), 6 and 7 (cut).
3) Push the pins out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. With the hole in this location by just pushing the screwdriver in, the pins will be pushed out. Remove the pins. See Figure 8.
4) Separate the two halves. See Figure 9.
5) With a flat head screwdriver, press the drum axle pin out from the inside of the cartridge wall as shown. There is a small shoulder visible that the screwdriver should be pressed against. Make sure not to bend or damage the plastic wall and the plastic is thin and easily damaged. Remove the axle pin from the outside with flush cutting wire cutters. See Figures 10, 11 and 12.
6) Remove the drum. See Figure 13. This is a good time to look at the new drive gear(s). This is a completely new system. New drums and gears are being developed.
The drum hub on the opposite side is welded. The weld can be broken or drilled out, but there is a good chance that the hub will either warp if pried off, or will be hard to align if drilled out. See Figure 14.
7) Remove the PCR and clean with your standard PCR cleaner. See Figure 15.
8) Remove the two screws and the Wiper Blade. See Figure 16.
9) Clean out the waste toner.
10) Coat the wiper blade with your preferred lubricant. Install the blade and two screws. See Figure 17.
11) Re-install the cleaned PCR. Note that a new OEM PCR has a small amount of conductive grease on the black (contact) side. See Figure 18.
12) Re-Install the OPC Drum and metal axle pin. The metal axle pin should have a small amount of conductive grease on the tip. Remove the old grease and replace before inserting the pin. Make sure the axle pin is fully inserted. See Figures 19 and 20.
13) Slice the two tabs off each location as shown on the left (seal) end cap. Use a square blade X-Acto knife to slice off the tabs. See Figures 21 and 22.
Note: Both the end caps are plastic welded in place. The only way to open them up is to cut the welds and carefully drill them out. We have found the left (Non-Gear) side is the best side to do this on.
14) Using the 3/32 inch drill bit, drill out each of the two welds. Be careful to keep the drill straight as you drill in. Use a slow speed and only drill in no more than 1/4 inch. See Figure 23.
15) With a flat head screwdriver work the edge of the blade around the edge of the end cap and gently pry up the end cap. You will hear the remaining parts of the welds break free. The top weld will also break off now. Take your time with this. See Figure 24.
16) Remove the magnetic roller assembly. See Figure 25.
17. Remove the Magnetic roller drive gear. The end cap will keep the bushing in place. See Figure 26.
18) Remove the doctor blade and two screws. See Figure 27.
19) Clean out any remaining toner from the hopper. Note the doctor blade seal. It is a sticky substance that can be cleaned with alcohol if toner gets on it. See Figure 28.
20) If you’re not going to use a seal, fill through the mag. roller opening with D1120 toner. There is not a fill plug in these cartridges. See Figure 29.
21) If you are going to seal the cartridge, there is a white plastic shelf that needs to be removed. See Figure 30. The shelf is held on with double sided tape. It can be gently pried off with a small screwdriver.
22) Install the seal onto the cleaned rails. Make sure the seal tab is set over the non-gear side of the cartridge. Remove the white toner port seal, and insert the seal tab in through the port opening. Install the white port seal on top of the seal. See Figures 31, 32 and 33.
23) Re-install the white plastic shelf. If the adhesive is not working, replace it with a good double-sided tape. This shelf helps with the flow of toner in the hopper. See Figure 34.
24) Re-install the doctor blade and two screws. See Figure 35.
25) Clean the old grease off the contact plate, and replace with new conductive grease. See Figure 36.
26) Re-assemble the toner hopper section. Place the mag. roller drive gear in place, install the magnetic roller assembly. Turn the roller until the keyed end fits into the drive gear properly. Install the end cap, align the keyed magnet into the keyed slot on the gear side first, this will help in aligning the opposite end cap. See Figures 37, 38 and 39.
27) Install two small screws into the holes previously drilled out. In our tests, the two screws will hold the end cap on with no problems. See Figure 40.
28) Place the two halves together, make sure that the two springs are aligned, and insert the two pins. Make sure that the pins are slightly pushed in so that they do not interfere with installing the cartridge in the printer. See Figures 41, 42 and 43.
29) Install the drum cover. Make sure the spring is situated correctly. See Figures 44 and 45.
30) To replace the chip. Cut the top melted plastics off the chip rails to remove the chip. Install the new chip. If the chip is loose, place a small dab of glue from a hot glue gun onto each corner. See Figures 46 and 47.
Repetitive defect chart:
OPC drum: 75mm
Lower fuser roller 63mm
Upper fuser film 57mm
Registration roller 43mm
Magnetic roller 42mm
Transfer roller 39mm
Running Test Pages
These machines are all MFP’s and it is best just to make a copy of a suitable test page.
This article originally appeared in the August 2010 issue of Recharger.