Remanufacturing the Samsung ML-1640 Toner Cartridge
- By Mike Josiah
- Oct 01, 2010
First released in September 2008, the Samsung ML-1640 printer is based on a 16ppm, 600 x 600 dpi engine. The ML-2240 is based on a 22ppm, 1200 dpi engine. Both use the same cartridge.
The 108S cartridge is based on the cartridge design of the ML-2010. They have a large handle which folds over the cartridge when installed. These cartridges do have a chip that must be replaced each cycle. This chip proved very difficult for the aftermarket to develop but it is now available.
Other than the toner cartridge, all the other consumables are rated for 50,000 pages. (Fuser, transfer roller, paper pickup rollers.) That number, coincidentally, is also the rated life for the printer. It seems Samsung considers both models throw away machines.
These cartridges do not have a built in drum cover, but do come new with a thin black plastic cover taped around the cartridge. See Figure 1.
The replacement cartridge itself is rated for 1,500 pages at 5 percent coverage (ISO 19752). The starter cartridge is rated for 700 pages.
Printers based on this engine:
- Toner approved vacuum
- A small common screwdriver
- A Phillips-head screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Samsung 1640 toner
- Replacement chip
- Conductive grease
- Drum lubricating powder
1) Place the cartridge with the handle facing away from you. Remove the two screws on the left end cap. See Figure 2.
2) Gently pry off the left end cap. See Figure 3.
3) On the front edge of the cartridge, there are two screws, remove them. See Figure 4.
4) Lift up and remove the waste chamber from the cartridge. Make sure the tab on the right side slide out of the slot. If you try to lift the cover off without sliding the tab out, it will break off. See Figure 5.
5) Remove the two screws and wiper blade from the waste chamber. See Figures 6 and 7.
6) Clean out any remaining toner from the waste chamber.
7) Re-install the wiper blade and two screws. Place the waste chamber aside. See Figure 8.
8) Remove the two screws from the right side end cap. Carefully pry off the end cap. See Figure 9.
9) Slide the PCR away from the contact side, lift up and remove. See Figure 10.
WARNING: Do not clean the OEM PCR with alcohol, as this will remove the conductive coating from the roller. If the PCR is an aftermarket, follow the cleaning methods recommended by the manufacturer. If the PCR is an OEM, we recommend it be cleaned with your standard PCR cleaner.
10) Remove the OPC drum. See Figure 11.
11) Remove the four gears, and place aside. See Figure 12.
12) Carefully pry out the fill plug. It fits tight and is easily damaged. Work a small jeweler’s screwdriver around the edge until the plug comes free. See Figure 13.
13) Clean out any remaining toner from the hopper.
14) Gently pry out the roller plate from the cartridge by pressing in on a tab located on the bottom of the cartridge. There is a spring that is in contact with the developer roller shaft. Move the tail of the spring up so that as the plate is lifted out, it will fall behind it. See Figures 14 and 15.
15) Remove the developer roller by lifting it out. See Figure 16.
16) Remove the two screws on the doctor blade. On the fill plug side of the blade, there is the other tail of the spring. Lift it up while removing the doctor blade so it is not damaged. See Figures 17 and 18.
It is highly recommended that the doctor blade be cleaned. Failure to do so will cause streaking. Dampen a cotton swab with alcohol, and clean the blade. Be careful not to press too hard and damage the blade. If the blade has a heavy buildup of toner on it, clean it with acetone, and then alcohol.
17) Clean the feed roller and any remaining toner from the hopper. See Figure 19.
18) Re-install the doctor blade and two screws. Make sure the tail of the spring fits into the proper slot. See Figures 20 and 21.
19) Install the developer roller, keyed end to the gear side of the cartridge. See Figure 22.
20) Install the roller plate. Route the tail of the spring so that it sits on top of the plate and is in contact with the shaft of the developer roller. Lock the plate in place with the tab. See Figures 23 and 24.
21) Install the drum in place. See Figure 25.
22) Install the four gears as shown. See Figure 26.
23) Clean out the old conductive grease from the PCR contact hub and replace with new. A small amount of grease is fine, more is not better when it comes to conductive grease. See Figure 27.
24) Install the PCR by sliding it through the large gear or non contact side, and into the contact hub. See Figure 28.
25) Fill the hopper with the appropriate toner. Replace the fill plug, check for leaks. See Figure 29.
26) Install the gear side end cap, and two screws. Make sure the PCR fits correctly in its holder, and all the gears are aligned. See Figure 30.
27) Install the waste chamber by sliding the tab through the slot in the end cap. Rotate it down, and install the two screws. See Figures 31 and 32.
28) Install the replacement chip by pressing in on the two chip tabs from the outside of the end cap. The chip cover will come free. Replace the chip and re-install the chip cover. Make sure it snaps in place. See Figures 33, 34, 35 and 36.
29) Install the remaining end cap and two screws. See Figure 37.
Printing test pages:
Press and hold the “CANCEL” button until all the STATUS LED blinks. A demo page will print out.
Repetitive defect chart
OPC drum 75.5mm
Lower fuser roller 75.4mm
Upper fuser roller 63.9mm
Supply roller 47.5mm
Transfer roller 46.2mm
Developer roller 35.2mm
Contact Mike Josiah at 631-218-8376 or email@example.com
This article originally appeared in the October 2010 issue of Recharger.