Remanufacturing the Samsung ML-3712 Toner Cartridge
First released in September 2011, the Samsung ML-3712 series of printers are based on a 33-37-ppm engine with a maximum resolution of 1,200-by-1,200 dpi. The first page out is stated to be under 6.5 seconds. Depending on the model number, other options/specs are available, including MFP versions (SCX).
The MLT-D205E/L/S cartridges do not have drum covers and come new wrapped in a piece of heavy paper with a thin sheet of foam on the inside taped around the cartridge.
While these cartridges look similar to other Samsung cartridges, there is a dramatic change, in that there are no screws in the outside of the cartridge at all; instead, there are plastic rivets that need to be cut off, holes drilled and screws installed to hold them back on. Itís not a hard process, and itís covered completely in the instructions. See Figures 1 and 2.
The standard cartridge (Samsung Part No. MLT-D205S) is rated for 2,000 pages, the high-yield cartridge (Samsung Part No. MLT-D205L) is rated for 5,000 pages, and the extra-high-yield cartridge (Samsung Part No. MLT-D205E) is rated for 10,000 pages.
As with pretty much all cartridges these days, the cartridge has a chip, and it has to be replaced each cycle. The OEM chips are regional, so be sure to get the proper chip for your region. Most of the machines in this series ship with a 5,000-page starter cartridge when new.
As of November 2011, the MLT-D205S has a list price of $62.49, the MLT-D205L has a list price of $116.06, and the MLT-D205E lists for $173.40.
There are quite a few machines, both MFP and laser-only, that use these cartridges so far:
Cartridge troubleshooting will be listed at the end of these instructions.
1) On the contact side of the cartridge, slice off the heads of the three plastic rivets with a chisel blade knife. If your knife is too wide, you may find it necessary to drill out the upper recessed rivets on both sides. Leave the end cap on for now. See Figure 3.
2) On the opposite side end cap, take the chisel blade knife and slice off the heads of the three plastic rivets. See above step for recessed rivets. Leave the end cap on for now. See Figure 4.
3) The drum axle arms on both sides of the cartridge stay with the end cap. There is no need to remove them. See Figure 5.
4) Remove the drum drive gear. See Figure 6.
5) While still on the same side, locate the two tabs. Press in on each tab and remove the end cap. The drum axle arm will come off with the end cap. See Figures 7, 8 and 9.
6) On the right-side end cap, press in on the three tabs and remove the end cap. See Figures 10, 11, 12 and 13.
7) Separate the two halves slightly and lift off the middle top cover. See Figure 14.
8) Gently pry up on the tabs on both sides of the cartridge and remove the waste hopper. Be careful to hold the drum so it does not become damaged. Remove the drum/waste assembly. See Figures 15, 16 and 17.
9) Remove the drum. See Figure 18.
10) Remove the PCR from the assembly. See Figure 19.
11) Clean the PCR with your normal PCR cleaner.
Warning: Do not clean the OEM PCR with alcohol, as this will remove the conductive coating from the roller. If the PCR is an aftermarket one, follow the cleaning methods recommended by the manufacturer. If the PCR is an OEM one, we recommend it be cleaned with your standard PCR cleaner.
12) Remove the two screws from the wiper blade, then remove the blade. Itís easy to remove if you slide it out from under the PCR holders. See Figures 20 and 21.
13) Clean out all the waste toner from the hopper. Make sure the seals are clean. See Figure 22.
14) Carefully remove the wiper blade seal from the right (chip) side. Peel back the seal about 3 inches. See Figure 23.
15) Pry up the chip cover. See Figure 24.
16) Lift up on the tab as shown and press the chip out through the opening. See Figure 25.
17) Replace the chip. See Figure 26.
18) Replace the chip cover. See Figure 27.
19) Reinstall the wiper blade seal. Use 100 percent silicone if the seal tore to prevent any leaks. Just as the OEM did, be careful not to use any silicone on the chip cover area; otherwise, it will be very difficult to replace the chip on the next cycle. See Figure 28.
20) Install the new wiper blade and two screws. It is easier to install if you slide it in under the PCR holders. See Figure 29.
21) Place a small amount of conductive grease in the holders and install the PCR, long-shaft-side to the gear or nonchip side. See Figure 30.
22) Install the drum with the large gear to the gear or nonchip side of the drum into the waste hopper. See Figure 31.
23) On the supply hopper, carefully pry out the fill plug and dump out any remaining toner. The fill plug can be difficult to remove, as it is recessed. Take a small common screwdriver and work it around the edge, lifting slightly until it comes loose. See Figure 32.
24) Pry off the gear plate and remove the gears. See Figures 33 and 34.
25) Remove the developer roller bushings from both sides. See Figures 35 and 36.
26) Remove the developer roller. See Figure 37.
27) Remove the two screws from the doctor blade, then remove the blade. See Figure 38.
28) Clean out all the remaining toner from the hopper.
29) Make sure the doctor blade sealing foam and the developer roller seals are clean and intact. See Figure 39.
30) Clean the doctor blade edge so there is no evidence of buildup along the edge. If any buildup exists, the cartridge will streak. No chemicals should be used. We have found using a clean, ice-cream-type wooden stick works great for scraping the blade clean without damaging it. See Figure 40.
31) Install the seal when available through the developer roller opening. See Figure 41.
32) Pull the tail of the seal through the seal port. See Figure 42.
33) Install the doctor blade and two screws. See Figure 43.
34) Clean the developer roller with a dedicated DVR cleaner and place it back into the hopper, long-shaft-side to the gear side of the cartridge. It should snap in place if installed correctly. See Figure 44.
35) Clean and replace the conductive grease on the short shaft side of the roller. See Figure 45.
36) Fill the hopper with ML-2525 toner, replace the fill plug and check for leaks. See Figure 46.
37) Replace the bushings on both sides of the developer roller. See Figure 47.
38) Install the gears in the order as shown. See Figures 48 and 49.
39) Install the gear axle plate. See Figure 50.
40) Fit both sides of the waste hopper tabs into the toner hopper. See Figures 51 and 52.
41) Slide the cleaned middle top cover/PCR cleaner assembly into place. Make sure the center tab fits under the edge of the doctor blade. See Figures 53, 54 and 55.
42) Clean the contacts on the left-side end cap and replace the conductive grease. Snap the end cap into place. See Figures 56 and 57.
43) Drill three small holes that correspond to the screw size youíre using. Install the three screws into the end cap. See Figures 58 and 59.
44) Clean the hubs on the gear or right-side end cap. Snap the end cap into place. See Figure 60.
45) Drill three small holes that correspond to the screw size youíre using. Install the three screws into the end cap. See Figures 61 and 62.
46) Install the drum drive gear. See Figure 63.
47) The drum separators are fixed to the end caps. They should be set as shown. These arms keep the drum and developer rollers separated until the cartridge is installed in the printer. See Figure 64.
Repetitive Defect Chart
- Upper heat roller 77.5 mm
- OPC drum 75.6 mm
- Lower pressure roller 75.4 mm
- Supply roller 49.0 mm
- Transfer roller 47.0 mm
- PCR 37.5 mm
- Developer roller 35.0 mm
Printing test pages
Depending on the model machine you have, there are different control panel configurations. To have test prints run on the laser printers, press the ìMenuî button and scroll to the ìInformationî menu. From there you can select the menu map, configuration pages, supplies info pages, demo pages, fonts pages, etc.
This article originally appeared in the January 2012 issue of Recharger.